once upon a time, i wrote my very first restaurant review for the now-defunct Manifesto magazine (i guess guys weren’t/aren’t too interested in culture and lifestyle after all). just dug it up again to send over to some folks who need a writer. had to retype the damn thing because my laptop’s crashed for more times than i’ve had boyfriends (what?) so i’m posting it here for posterity.

ps. it’s very drab. i tried to kill the author. thanks though, iggy.

. . .

IN-YÓ FUSION CUISINE

RENDEZVOUS

The next time your girlfriend tries to sweet talk you into treating her to the spa, propose a mutually beneficial compromise: a hideaway of gustatory delights tucked in the fringes of Katipunan Avenue.

The unpretentious gateway is easy to miss if not for the simple, lighted sign. Worry not about parking; a small lot in front of the house-turned-restaurant offers some space or hand your keys over to the valet.

It’s love at first sight with In-yó Fusion Cuisine’s façade, where the old-time charm blends cozily with various Asian décor. The overall feel is very spa-like and inspires one to relax and look forward to a promising culinary experience.

After being seated by the courteous serving staff, you can choose to order ala carte or enjoy the 7-course degustation. The menu offers east-meets-west dishes concocted by Chef de Cuisine Niño Laus, who specializes in French and Japanese cuisine, and Sous Chef Gary Reyes.

The bread plate features the restaurant’s own foccacia with whipped parsley while your water goblet is filled with refreshing fruit-infused water. Appetizers consist mostly of seafood such as Rockefeller oysters. The salads are a little more exciting, with the Char-grilled US Hanging Tender Steak Salad taking the laurels.

In-yó goes the extra mile in making each dish presentable with artistic plating. A medley of greens and tender steak slices tossed in a citrusy dressing, it has a pleasant zing and hints at the use of cilantro. The color palette and invigorating flavors make it an excellent appetite stimulant.

For entrees, there is currently only one poultry dish being offered by Chef Niño plans to change the menu monthly and to provide a wider variety of options. Worth mentioning are the Coconut Lime Chicken beautifully presented on tanglad skewers, delicate honey-glazed Grilled Salmon on a bed of wasabi mashed potatoes, and Blackened Ahi Tuna with black pepper and thyme crusting.

Pasta choices are also available, nicely paired with a small serving of meat or seafood. The Pesto Cream Pasta comes with Cajun-spiced chicken strips, which could use some more zest but nonetheless complements the al dente noodles and creamy green sauce.

Of course, no meal is ever complete without dessert (and don’t believe your girlfriend when she complains about adding unwanted inches to her waistline). In-yó has a special dessert menu to cater to your sweet tooth: four kinds of crème brûlée, a pannacotta made with real vanilla bean, a mango-based concoction, and two chocolate cakes. Not very fusion cuisine but superbly executed.

For chocolate lovers, the Rich Chocolate Cake with Café Latte Cream may look intimidating at first sight because of the generous cake and mousse layering. It has a rich Belgian chocolate sauce and toasted cashew nut toppings. Chocolate! Chocolate Cake is a moist pudding made from Valrhona chocolate with molten chocolate truffle. If you prefer something light, the Vanilla Pannacotta is just lovely with its delicate flavor and almost creamy texture. The tiny black specks attest to the real vanilla bean that was used.

When every last bit has been eaten, Restaurant Manager Cris Orocio usually offers their guest book and willingly entertains any inquiries. She explains that in-yó is Japanese for yin-yang or balance, and has a double meaning for Filipinos, literally translating to ‘yours’. Fast becoming a popular hangout and dating place among residents and students of nearby schools since its September ’06 opening, In-yó is indeed a place for getting away from the stress of everyday life, for coming together, for just enjoying the comfort that good food has to offer.

Published in Manifesto, Volume 2, Issue 4 (2007)